How to Find the Right Dog Trainer for you and your Best Friend

Written By: Dr. Gwen

The most important investment of time, energy and money in your new dog’s future is training. The number one reason dogs are surrendered to shelters is for behavior problems. Most of these behavior issues could have been prevented with good training and early intervention.

Training a dog requires the caregivers to understand how to train a dog. In the past couple of decades, there has been many new discoveries about how dogs learn and how we can help them have happy fulfilled lives by understanding their body language and emotional states. Consider how our schools have changed over the years to teach our children. Corporal punishment is banned and much more humane and effective and sensitive teaching practices are now common place. The dog training world has changed too. Training a dog using the same techniques as you learned in 1970 to 1990’s are outdated and can actually cause more behavioral issues than actually train the dog.

The best trainer for your dog is you, but you must be trained to deliver the lessons and work with your dog. If you understand how the training process works, you can train many behaviours to enable your dog  be a good canine citizen and behave and be able to do fun things that you both enjoy together.

When looking for a dog trainer to teach you, it is a good idea to interview the dog trainer you are considering.

Ask about their experience and qualifications. Where did they get their training what organizations are they members. Ask how does he/she educate themselves about dog behaviour and health on an ongoing basis. (Canadian Association of Professional Pet Dog Trainers)

Ask about their training techniques. Positive reinforcement or reward based training the best, most effective training you can learn to use. It is humane and effective. There are many terms that are used to describe this training. Some of these are: Clicker training, Reward training and Operant conditioning. To ‘test’ the trainer you are interviewing, ask how they would correct an undesirable behavior. If their answer suggests any kind of punishment or physically stopping the behavoiur or could cause your dog to feel fear, then it is not reward based training and that method should be avoided.

 

Do they offer private lessons or group lessons or both. Do they offer several levels of classes that would allow you to do training that interests you the most.

Ask if you can observe a class. A confident professional will not object. While watching a class, ask yourself the following questions:

  • Did the trainer explain the exercises in a clear and easily understood manner? 
  • Did the trainer take the time to assist each attendee with the exercises? 
  • Did the participants look like they were having fun? (You may not think this is important but when the class is enjoyable you’ll be more willing to attend.) 
  • How did the dogs seem to enjoy the class? Was the trainer concerned about the dog’s enjoyment?
  • Was the class structured and organized?
  • What support does the trainer provide? i.e. take home information, contact information if you get stuck at home after the class, etc.

After observing a class, ask the trainer questions about what you observed. A couple of thoughtful questions can be all the difference in finding the right trainer for you!  Do you feel comfortable approaching the trainer and asking questions? It’s important to feel like you can ask questions. Like any other professional in your life – you must be prepared to have a good working relationship with this person.


Good luck with your search!

 

When Gilbert Met Scrappy

Written by: Juanita
Unfortunately, this is not a love story. Its not even a like story. It’s a story of hate and disgust, it’s a story of blood and gore. And unfortunately it is true.

This is Gilbert. He’s a 4-year-old short haired grey tabby. He’s been known to be play aggressive which means after a couple of pats he would grab onto my hand while biting and rabbit kicking it. Ouch.

Meet Gilbert
Meet Scrappy

This is Scrappy. He’s a 6-year-old short haired orange tabby. Despite his name, Scrappy is a lover. Content to sit on your lap and purr for hours. That being said, Scrappy rubs other cat the wrong way. He was returned to his adoption group for failing to get along with others.

When Gilbert met Scrappy, it was hate at first sight. We kept them separated for the first few days, then supervised visits but the end result was screaming, hissing, scratches, pus filled wounds, and tumble weed sized clumps of fur on the floor.

As time passed, the frequency of the fighting slowed, but someone always had a scratch. Scrappy started over grooming leaving his belly stripped of fur. Help!

We turned to Feliway, it helps comfort and reassure cats by mimicking the natural feline facial pheromone that happy cats use to mark their territory as safe and familiar. We brought home a spray bottle and we would spray 1 pump once a day in the common areas of our house. The effect wasn’t immediate or highly noticeable right away but after a month I realized I hadn’t seen any tumble weeds of fur. Scratches were healed, and no glass shattering screeching was heard. When the spray bottle emptied, I replaced it with 2 diffusers. These plug into a wall outlet and last for a month. Refills are available to replace monthly.

We have 1 diffuser on each level of our house and while they aren’t going to curl up and groom each other, Scrappy’s tummy fur is starting to growing back. Here at the clinic we use Feliway as part of our Low Stress handling initiative for our feline patients. We strive to reduce the stress our patients could experience during a visit, Feliway in our exam rooms helps to calm and relax an edgy kitty.

If your feline friend is having some anxiety or behaviour issues be sure to ask us about Feliway. You can contact us via Phone (902-893-2341), via Email (info@trurovet.com) or in person (165 Arthur Street, Truro, NS).

 

 

How to Find a Groomer That’s Right for You and Your Dog

Written By: Dr. Gwen

For some dogs, going to the groomer is like a spa day, but for others, the change of routine, strange handling and getting wet is worse then getting porcupine quills … in your eye!

Finding the right groomer reduces the stress on your dog, enables you to feel free to leave your best friend for the day without worries.
To help you find the right groomer for you and your best friend, here are a few questions and things to think about:
  • Look local first and expand your search if you can’t find the right groomer nearby. This saves the environment and if your dog does not appreciate travelling, a short trip is preferable to a long car ride.
  • Looks to see how the dogs are housed. Are there many crates or larger more spacious kennels? Are the kennels in a climate controlled space? Are there many other dogs present at the same time? Is there a lot of barking?
  • How many people are on staff. Some dogs are not the ‘happy go lucky’ types and meeting new people can be stressful.
  • Are the dogs allowed to socialize with each other. Socializing may be the best or the worst thing to happen to your dog. It depends on his/her personality.
  • Can small and nervous dogs be separated from larger or more assertive or aggressive dogs?
  • What does the groomer do for the nervous, aggressive or just an extremely exuberant dog. What techniques does the groomer use to calm a dog? Would these things work for your dog?
  • Did the groomer ask about nail, anal gland and ear care?
  • Did the groomer suggest dental care too? This is a flag – proper dental care can not be done in an awake pet safely. Do not allow a groomer to clean your pet’s teeth.
  • Did the groomer ask about the most recent vaccines (especially kennel cough) and deworming treatments and flea and tick prevention. If this was required for your pet, you can safely assume that the establishment is careful about disease transfer.
  • What does the groomer do for old, arthritic dogs to keep them comfortable while being groomed. The groomer may suggest several shorter sessions so the pet is not too stressed standing for extended periods of time.
  • How far in advance do you have to book ahead to get the date of your choice?
  • Will the groomer allow you to stay and assist with the grooming.

Tips to Make Your Dog’s Spa day wonderful.
  • Go to the groomers place before booking an appointment for your dog. Check out the facility and see if there are any things the groomer can do to make your best friend’s stay fun.
  • Bring your puppy hungry and have a few of his/her favourite treats to ‘break the ice’. This short and fun visit helps make future visits go much easier.
  • If car rides are a recipe for car sickness, we have to work on that before you travel to the groomer. The last thing a nervous dog needs is to combine scary things. Ask us how to train your dog to tolerate or even love the car.
  • Discuss with the groomer the expectations you have for the finished look of your pet. Bring pictures that you like so that the groomer knows what you want and can discuss with you what is possible with the condition of the coat.
  • Discuss how mats and areas of poor hygiene can be helped with good grooming techniques.
  • If your dog has any special disabilities, arthritic, deaf or blind; please share this with the groomer so adjustments can be made in the grooming technique to lower the stress on your dog.
 

How to Find a Boarding Kennel that is Right for You and Your Dog

Written By: Dr Gwen

For some dogs, going to the kennel is like going to doggy camp, but for others, the change of routine and familiar things and people is a recipe to stress … and sickness.

Finding a boarding kennel that reduces the stress on your dog, enables you to feel free to enjoy your holiday without worries that your best friend is having a bad time.

To help you find the right boarding kennel for your best friend (and you), here are a few questions and things to think about:

  • Look local first and expand your search if you can’t find the right kennel. This saves the environment and if your dog does not appreciate travelling, a short trip is preferable to a long car ride.
  • How are the dogs housed? Are the kennels in a climate controlled space. What’s the flooring made of? Is bedding supplied.
  • How many people are on staff. Some dogs are not the happy go luck types and meeting many new people can be stressful.
  • Are there recreation areas for the dogs to exercise? A place to swim?
  • Are the dogs allowed to socialize with each other. Socializing may be the best or the worst thing to happen to your dog. It depends on his/her personality.
  • How frequent are the dogs checked on? Hourly, throughout the day? Two to three times throughout the night?
  • Are there web cams so that you can have a virtual visit with your friend?
  • Is barking an issue? How does the kennel operator reduce barking?
  • Can small and nervous dogs be separated from larger or more assertive or aggressive dogs?
  • What does the kennel operator do if the dog is nervous, aggressive or just extremely exuberant at the kennel. What techniques does the kennel operator uses to calm a dog? Would these things work for your dog?
  • Did the kennel operator ask about food allergies or sensitivities? If there are special food needs, ensure the kennel knows about it.
  • Does the kennel provide food or do you supply the food?
  • Did the kennel operator ask about the most recent vaccines (especially Kennel Cough) and deworming treatments and flea prevention. If this health care is required for your pet then the risk of transmitting disease is much lower.
  • What does the groomer do for old, arthritic dogs to keep them comfortable?
  • How hard is it to book dates for a kennel stay?

Tips to Make Your Dog’s Kennel Stay seem like Doggy Camp.

  • Go to the kennel before booking a stay for your dog. Check out the facility and see if there are any things the kennel operator can do to make the pup’s stay fun. Bring your puppy hungry and have a few of his/her favourite treats to ‘break the ice’. This short and fun visit helps make future visits go much easier.
  • If car rides are a recipe for car sickness, we have to work on that before you travel to the groomer. The last thing a nervous dog needs is to combine scary things. Ask us how to train your dog to tolerate or even love the car.
  • You may want to pack some familiar things for your dog. Toys, favourite treats, bedding and maybe an old shirt of yours that your recently wore to give your dog olfactory (smell) comfort.
  • If your dog is on a special diet, bring enough of it to last the stay. Last last thing a dog needs is a diet change when he/she is already stressed.
  • Give the kennel instructions for vet visits if necessary and ensure kennel operator has your contact information or contact information of someone you trust to make decisions about your dog’s care in case of an emergency.
 

What does Anxiety look like in your CAT?

Fear is a normal response that enables a living creature to survive danger. Anxiety is an abnormal display of fear that, if allowed to build, can cause aggression. Most fearful pets do not show aggression but if the source of fear is not addressed or removed, aggression is a natural outcome.

FEAR –> Freeze or Flight –> Fight or Aggression

Think about yourself and your fears, worries and anxiety. You might have fears of being alone, fear of thunder and lightening or maybe fear of crazy driver ahead of you in the road. These are natural to have but if you experience too much fear, anxiety and possibly aggression might arise. How many of us have sworn at that dangerous driver?

Identifying fear at the beginning and removing the source of fear can help prevent anxiety in the future.

Long term fear leads to anxiety and that has many health effects on our bodies. It doesn’t matter what animal you are, if you have a brain you can experience anxiety.

Not all fearful animals behave the same way and many times if the initial signs of fear were not identified then one might only see aggression. Remember aggressive animals were almost always scared before the aggression surfaced.

Subtle signs of a fearful cat are:

* Ears high and out to the side

* Tries to hide

* Hypervigilant – Watching every move and sensitive to fast motions

* Hiss, growl

* Panting (not too hot)

* Stops taking food

* Moves slowly

Here are some examples:

2013-09-28_0948

7094875 tumblr_npa27rya8X1qzo1jbo1_1280

 

What does Anxiety look like in your DOG?

Fear is a normal response that enables a living creature to survive danger. Anxiety is an abnormal display of fear that, if allowed to build, can cause aggression. Most fearful pets do not show aggression but if the source of fear is not addressed or removed, aggression is a natural outcome.

FEAR –> Freeze or Flight –> Fight or Aggression

Think about yourself and your fears, worries and anxiety. You might have fears of being alone, fear of thunder and lightening or maybe fear of crazy driver ahead of you in the road. These are natural to have but if you experience too much fear, anxiety and possibly aggression might arise. How many of us have sworn at that dangerous driver?

Identifying fear at the beginning and removing the source of fear can help prevent anxiety in the future.

Long term fear leads to anxiety and that has many health effects on our bodies. It doesn’t matter what animal you are, if you have a brain you can experience anxiety.

Not all fearful animals behave the same way and many times if the initial signs of fear were not identified then one might only see aggression. Remember aggressive animals were almost always scared before the aggression surfaced.

Subtle signs of a fearful dog are:

* Ears high and out to the side

* Tries to hide

* Hypervigilant – Watching every move and sensitive to fast motions

* Lip licking

* Panting (not too hot)

* Stops taking food

* Yawn and looks tired

* Moves slowly

Here are some examples:

post-23567-body-language-of-fear-in-dogs-i8M0

 

What Does Pain Look like in your Cat?

You are in the best position to look for subtle changes of behaviours that indicate your cat is in pain. If your kitty is showing one or more of these behaviours he/she maybe hurting. By completing this assessment, you are helping us to identify possible painful conditions

Please check all that apply:

Vocalizing:

meow

  • _____ Meowing more then usual
  • _____ Purring that seems to be associated with pain
  • _____ Hissing
  • _____ Growling
  • _____ Vocalizes differently, makes noises that are not normal for him/her

Daily Habits:

drink

  • _____ Decreased Appetite
  • _____ Withdraws from social interaction with family members or other animals
  • _____ Changes in sleeping (more or less); sleeps in unusual positions, not curled up; sleeps in abnormal locations (that may be easier to get to, avoiding jumping)
  • _____ Changes in drinking habits
  • _____ Urinates or defecates outside the litter box, has difficulty getting into and out of the box, unable to squat
  • _____ Constipated
  • _____ Won’t groom or grooms less, fur looks unkempt
  • _____ Licking, biting or over grooming a particular body part

Activity Level:

gattoscatola

  • _____ Restless
  • _____ Reluctant to move or moves slowly or stiffly
  • _____ Trembles or shakes
  • _____ Limps
  • _____ Less active; play or hunts less
  • _____ Avoids jumping; can’t jump as high as previously
  • _____ Avoids or has difficulty on stairs
  • _____ Seeks more affection
  • _____ Hides

Posture:

nails

  • _____ Generally lays with feet underneath
  • _____ Crouches for long periods and doesn’t move
  • _____ Reluctant to sharpen claws or stretch
  • _____ Walks stiffly with back arched
  • _____ Overgrown nails, doesn’t sharpen them

Facial Expressions:

pupils

  • _____ Glazed, wide eyed or sleepy
  • _____ Enlarged pupils
  • _____ Squints eyes

 

 

Self Protection:

iStock_000015251643XSmall

  • _____ Protects a body part
  • _____ Doesn’t put weight on a leg
  • _____ Doesn’t want or avoids being held or picked up or patted

 

 

Aggression:

why-do-cats-hiss0

Especially in a previous friendly cat

  • _____ Acts out of character
  • _____ Growls, hisses or bites
  • _____ Pins ears back
  • _____ Is aggressive to humans or other cats

Please list any other changes that are note listed above:

______________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________

For a Printable Copy: Pain in cats

 

Not Just Cuddling Puppies and Kittens

Courtesy of: Joye

As a Registered Veterinary Technician, I often hear comments like “It must be nice to play with pets all day”, or “You have my dream job, hanging out with kittens and puppies!”  Although on occasion we do get to share some special moments of cuddling with the amazing pets who come to see us, there are many hazards in the veterinary profession as well.  Last week I experienced something that is one of the greatest fears in our profession…a dog bite on my face.

As members of the veterinary team, we accept that there are many risks in our line of work.   Pets aren’t able to understand what we are doing to them, they are in a strange environment, and often times (from their perspective) we aren’t being very nice.  We don’t respect their personal space and boundaries, and as a result we need to take many precautions to prevent injury to anyone (vet team, owners or pets) when pets become upset.

All of us have experienced some minor injuries in our line of work.  Even a simple appointment such as vaccines for a new puppy can sometimes result in ugly scratches from sharp puppy nails.  Cats come equipped with lots of built-in weapons and often aren’t afraid to show their displeasure with both their teeth and their claws.  Many of these cats are happy house pets who wouldn’t scratch or bite in their own environment, but when they are subjected to strange people, smells, sights and sounds, all bets are off.  We also work with feral (wild) cats who are trapped and brought in to be spayed or neutered and re-released.  We expect these cats to be frightened and aggressive and we take precautions accordingly.

As with cats, some dogs find visiting our hospital extremely stressful.  Dogs are generally much better at giving us warning signs when we are pushing them too far.  They will often start either by avoiding our gaze or by directly staring at us.  We also watch for what is called “whale eye“, when the white part of the eye is easily visible.  These are early signs that a dog is uncomfortable in a situation.  They may then escalate to a growl or a slight lift of their lips to show their teeth.  If we continue our activities without paying attention to these signs, these dogs may bite.  Some dogs who have a history of stressful visits to the vet may simply skip the preliminary warnings, however, and head straight to biting to get their point across.

We are very committed to protecting the safety of our team members, clients and patients.  We have Occupational Health and Safety rules in place to provide guidance regarding handling these types of situations.  Communication and awareness are key factors in keeping our hospital team safe.  We have a system by which pet files are clearly marked with “Caution” stickers if the pet has a history of attempting to harm team members in the past.  These stickers also include helpful information such as what methods of restraint worked best (for instance, some cats respond well to just being wrapped in a towel while some also benefit from an Elizabethan collar).

Towel and E-Collar

With dogs we record the type and size of muzzle we have used in the past.  It is important that we all know the history of an animal before it comes into the exam room and each time we add notes about what methods are most successful.

Even with all these measures in place, unpredictable events occur.   A dog who has only been mildly nervous in the past may suddenly become very defensive if they have to wait for a long time for their visit, or if there are other dogs in the waiting area that are feeling stressed.  There may be strange smells in the hospital that day that are upsetting to dogs or cats.  Hospital team members may be feeling rushed or pressured to get an appointment done quickly for a dog with a history of having a hard time at the vet, in an attempt to get them home and happy as quickly as possible.  All of these factors may result in the nervous dog becoming a fearful dog, and fearful dogs are much more likely to bite.

Dog bite wounds are very rare in our hospital, thanks to our experienced team and good communication.  Minor bites on the arms and legs are certainly serious concerns, but many people who work in our industry carry a little worry in the back of their mind about experiencing a bite on their face.  In addition to permanent facial scarring, there is always a risk of damage to the eyes, which could be life altering.  Thankfully, my eyes were unaffected, but my upper lip was torn and I have a large U-shaped laceration on my cheek.  These required repair by a plastic surgeon and it may be months before we know how well the scars will heal.

Facial scars

Our team will be meeting to discuss this incident and look for ways to prevent something like this from happening again.  While we continuously look for new ways to improve our safety at work, there are many things pet owners can do to help.  Dogs and cats who are well socialized and frequently exposed to new situations in a safe manner are much more likely to handle vet visits well.  If your dog has been nervous about visiting the vet in the past, consider dropping by for more frequent visits to allow team members to pet, play with and reward your dog when no negative procedures need to be done.  Check out this great blog by Dr. Sophia Yin regarding Dog Bite Prevention Week, held annually in May, for more information.  If your pet has a history of biting or showing defensive behaviours, it is important to let us know before your appointment so we can be prepared.  Dr. Yin also has a blog about handling a dog who has bitten someone in the past, you can read it here.

Please respect our experience and best intentions when handling your pet.  Even though your dog or cat may be friendly and happy with everyone at home, please trust us when we express concern over how they are feeling here.  In some cases we may suggest that our technicians and assistants hold your pet for procedures, when we are concerned that the pet is stressed and may bite.  We have all  had training in recognizing the early warning signs discussed above.  When we suggest that your dog may need a muzzle for procedures here, we aren’t trying to be mean to your pet, we are simply trying to keep everyone involved safe.  If we work together, combining your knowledge of your pet’s normal behaviour with our experience and training, we can have every visit be safe and successful.

Muzzle

If you have any questions or concerns about how your pet handles vet visits, please call us at 902-893-2341.  The suggestions above are merely the tip of the iceberg when it comes to making trips to the vet more relaxed and safer for your pets.

 

Truro Vet Says Good-Bye…To Declawing Cats

Courtesy of: Joye

Truro Veterinary Hospital is very excited to announce that we are no longer performing declaw procedures on cats.  For many years, declawing has been the procedure of choice for any owners worried about their household furniture or being scratched by a cat who plays too rough.  However, the veterinary industry, like any medical field, is one of growth and change.  As we learn more, we can do better.

The Procedure

For many people, the medical procedure of “declawing” has always been poorly understood.  Many believe that a cat’s claws grow from the skin, as fingernails do in people.  This isn’t the case.  In fact, the operation may be more accurately called “de-toeing”, as the first bone of each toe must be completely removed to prevent the claw from regrowing.  Each declawed cat has actually experienced 10 toe amputations.  In a human, that would look like this:

Amputation

Ouch!  So, why did we do it?

The surgical technique of declawing was first performing in 1966 and became a very common surgery in the 1970s.  Eventually it became standard code of practice to have a cat’s claws removed at the time of spay or neuter.  Many owners came to believe that this was just part of owning a cat.  Others worried about their expensive furniture and the negative impact cat scratching would have.  Still others were immune-compromised individuals worried about the health consequences of receiving a cat scratch.  Many veterinarians perform the procedure in the belief that declawing is preferable to having a cat surrendered to a shelter or worse, euthanized.

Seems reasonable.  What’s changed?

In the last decade, veterinarians have become more conscious of the ethical ramifications of cosmetic procedures such as tail docking, ear cropping and declawing.  These procedures provide no health benefit to the recipients and are done purely at the preference of the owner.  In 2010 the Nova Scotia Veterinary Medical Association (NSVMA) instituted a ban on tail docking or ear cropping by veterinarians in Nova Scotia.  (Unfortunately, a recent vote by the NSVMA did not pass a similar ban on declawing cats.)  These procedures do not “promote animal health and welfare“, a promise taken by all Canadian vets as they enter the profession.  In fact, declawing is illegal in at least 22 countries around the world.

In fact, declaws do not merely provide no health benefit to the patient, they frequently result in significant ill effects.  As the medical industry is coming to better understand pain, especially that of human amputees, we are able to understand more about the long-term effects this amputation has on cats.  Cats are stoic animals, with genetic instincts built in to ensure that they don’t let the world around them know they are feeling pain (in the wild, this may result in being someone’s lunch!).  We now know that declawed cats may suffer chronic pain which worsens as they age.

One side effect of chronic pain in the front feet is that declawed cats may be more likely to have problems with litterbox use.  Getting in and out of the litterbox, as well as scratching around in the litter, can pose a challenge for these cats and result in urination and defecation in inappropriate places around the house.

Behaviourally, cats use their toes and claws for many activities.

Courtesy of Tree House Human Society

Claws are used in play and self-defense, and even a friendly indoor cat will often give a swat as a request for some personal space.  This is one of the arguments in favour of declawing.  However, studies have shown that removing a cat’s claws simply makes them resort to a back-up plan…their teeth.  Cat bites are much more likely to result in serious injury to humans and other pets than scratches.  Bites often result in deep puncture wounds and bleeding, causing a much higher risk for immune-compromised individuals than scratches.

For the veterinarians worried about pet owners giving up their cats or euthanizing them if they can’t have them declawed, there is good news.  A survey of 276 veterinary clients revealed that just 4% of them would seriously consider these options if they could not have access to declawing.  This may be related to the fact that as many as 95% of declaws are done purely to save household furnishings, with concerns about human safety coming in a very distant second.  Interestingly, the top reasons that cats are surrendered to shelters are for inappropriate urination and biting, two side effects potentially associated with declaw procedures.

If you’ve made it this far, we hope that you have come to understand our perspective and why we are taking this big step forward for our feline patients.  If you’re like me, you might want to see some of the science/research behind this information.  Please visit here for an excellent summary.  If you’re a visual learner, or just want more information about the hazards and long-term effects of declaws, please check out The Paw Project, a ground-breaking movie bringing this issue to the forefront of social awareness.

Cookie Monster

Does our decision to stop doing declaws mean that you can never have nice furniture again?  Absolutely not!  There are several alternatives to declawing that are humane and inexpensive…but they often require some effort.  We think a healthy pet and a beautiful house are worth it!

Declawing Alternatives:

1.  Scratching posts are one of the most effective ways to deter scratching of furniture and walls in your home.  Cats need to scratch, it is a natural behaviour they will always do, so why not give them something appropriate to scratch on?  Not all cats scratch alike, however, so be sure to invest in a variety of options to find out what works best.  Find some helpful hints here.

SimpleComplex

(Scratching posts can be simple….or very complex!)

2. Trimming your cat’s nails regularly will greatly decrease the likelihood of damage to yourself and your belongings.  If you don’t know how, we are happy to teach you.  Also, if your cat has had vaccines with us in the last year, we will even trim them for you once a month at no charge.

Cat Nail Clippers

3. In off limits areas, you can try deterrents such as double-sided tape, aluminum foil, or car/chair mats with the spiky side up.  Cats generally don’t like the sensation of these things under their feet and will find a happier scratching spot elsewhere.  (This also can help with cats who hop on counters where they aren’t invited).

4. Did we mention scratching posts? 🙂

Horizontal post

5. Nail caps such as Soft Paws may be used to prevent damage from scratching.  These caps fit over the nail like artificial nails for humans and provide a soft tip so that scratching doesn’t cause damage.  This may be especially helpful in adult cats as you attempt other techniques to re-train them to proper scratching areas.

Soft Paws

We have tons of great information available about declaw alternatives and we’d be happy to share more ideas, tips and tricks with you.

What if it’s too late?  What if you, like many others, have already had your cat declawed?  Although you may be feeling badly about this decision, know that it’s never too late to provide the best care possible for your cat.  We recommend scheduling a visit with your veterinarian to discuss the more subtle ways your cat may be telling you she’s hurting.  Proper pain management may change your pet’s life.

If you have questions or concerns about declaws, please contact us at 902-893-2341.  We’re always happy to hear from you!

 

 

Your Dog Hates The Vet? This One’s For You!

Courtesy of: Kaila and Dr. Gwen

Let’s face it…every dog is different!  For some of our patients, a trip to the vet is their favourite event in the day (not counting breakfast, lunch and supper, of course).  These dogs tear through our doors ready to greet everyone and have a fantastic time!  Then there are the other dogs…the ones for whom a visit to the vet is a terrifying event, causing stress and anxiety that often carries right through the rest of the day.  The big question is, how can we (both staff members and owners) try to help our dogs stay happy and stress-free while visiting the vet?

Here at Truro Vet we try to do everything we can to make your dog’s visit to the vet an enjoyable one; we want positive experiences and not negative ones. Coming to the vet can come with a lot of anxiety, not just for the dog, but for the owner as well. No owner likes to see his or her dog stressed out and worked up. Yet most of our patients love coming in. If yours is one of the poor dogs who does not love the visit, what can you do to make it at the very least tolerable and at the best (hopefully eventually) very fun?

  • If you’re starting off with a new puppy, you are lucky enough to have a blank slate.  Bring your puppy to puppy parties. We notice a HUGE difference in the puppies that have come here for Thursday Night Puppy Parties because they are pulling their owner to come IN rather then go out of the building. We have dogs that attended puppy parties years ago and still love to come to the vet because they had so many positive experiences at the vets. Oh and did we mention they are FREE?
  • Bring your dog to Obedience Classes. This is great if your dog is too old to attend puppy parties; we have a variety of different classes for different levels that can help your dog associate the vet as a fun place full of positive interactions and treats.
  • Visit us just for fun – stop by and get some treats. Have your dog sit on the scale for some freeze dried liver, and get some extra love and attention from the staff. These fun visits that aren’t associated with anything negative can really help to make the next visit be not quite as scary.

 

Now for some “tricks” you can teach your dog at home to make vet visits less stressful and more enjoyable for everyone involved. If you don’t know how to get started with any of the below behaviors contact us about training.

  • Train your dog to LOVE a crate, even if you don’t use it at home (although we really recommend that you do).  If your dog is in for any lengthy procedure they will be crated. It is a lot less stress on your pooch if they already enjoy being in the crate when they come to the vet then having to learn about a crate when they are already scared or painful.

Meeghan and Bear love their kennel!

  • Train your dog to stand still and tolerate being handled all over. Practice some pushing on the abdomen, or an arm reaching over his back, picking up and stretching legs carefully, even holding him still for restraint. Don’t forget to get him used to you looking in their ears, eyes, and mouth.
  • Teach your dog to lay on his side. This is a great body position for examination of legs and belly, also great position to lay in for nail trimmings or radiographs (X-rays).

Indy playing "dead"

  • Make sure your dog is comfortable with having his paws held so that it isn’t a fight for the staff to trim his nails – causing your poor dog even more stress at the visit.

Even with all this preparation, some dogs are just plain worried about their time here at the hospital.  There are a few ways that we can work together to lessen your best friend’s anxiety before it even starts.

  • Book the appointment for the beginning of your vet’s work day or right after a lunch or dinner break. This will reduce the waiting time until the vet can see your pet. The less time to wait, the less time to worry.
  • Ask when you book the appointment that you be allowed to be directed right into an exam room, away from other animals that might upset your dog.  When you arrive, leave your dog in the car (if it is safe to do so) and notify the staff of your arrival.
  • Exercise your dog before the visit. It is harder to worry about things if you are physically tired.
  • Skip the meal before the visit and bring some of his favorite treats. A hungry dog can be distracted with food more easily then a dog with a full belly.
  • Gentle leaders or head halters offer your dog some comfort in the office if he is used to wearing one. If you don’t use a head halter then just use a regular collar and leash, preferably not a chain collar or leash. They make scary sounds and can get very tight on your dog’s neck, making the anxiety worse. Please never use a prong collar on your dog. They are inhumane and can cause permanent damage to the throat area.
  • Dogs have empathetic souls. They can read your emotions without even working up a sweat. Your scent changes if you are anxious and they know that you are worried before you even know about it.   If possible, have the calmest person in the family to accompany your dog. Calmness is almost as contagious as anxiety. If you can exude a calm attitude so will your dog.
  • A good thorough exam of your dog takes time. Anxious dogs need more time to adapt to the new environment. The examination takes longer too. Worried dogs prefer the slow but steady approach. Don’t pick a day when you are on a tight schedule. Set yourself up to be calm and relaxed yourself.

Despite all our best efforts, some visits to the vet are likely to go more smoothly than others.  Try not to let a less than perfect trip keep you from coming again.  In fact, a few visits just to come in and get weighed can help remove any negative associations, for both you and your dog.  If you would like information on happier visits for cats, please visit our blog “NOT The Happiest Place On Earth!”

If you would like more information about helping your dog love us as much as we love him, please give us a call at 893-2341.  We can’t wait to see you soon!